This article is about geysers Junkers WR400-1, Junkers WR350-1, Junkers WR250-1 with piezo ignition. This is a ruler geysers Junkers, they differ only in power and, accordingly, the size of the heat exchanger, the number of burner sections and the settings of the water unit. The principle of operation and design of these columns is the same. Because video analyzes are made on the basis of the WR400-1, then I will talk about this gas water heater, but everything that I show and tell is applicable to the entire line.

Geyser Junkers WR400-1 is a classic gas column design with piezo ignition. It is in this modification of the geyser that the basic principles are laid down, which other manufacturers will later copy. In a series of video clips, I will tell you as much as possible about this device. Studying the design of the column Junkers WR400-1, you can easily master further modifications of gas water heaters that are produced today under the Bosch brand.

Introductory remarks and general overview of the Junkers WR400-1 geyser:

Water node.

Material: plastic, brass, steel, rubber.

Consists of: body, plate with stem, membrane, water flow regulator (manual and automatic), filter, springs, venturi fitting.

Functions: Controls the inclusion of the geyser, determines the presence of water flow through the geyser, maintains a constant water flow within the specified ranges due to the automatic flow regulator, filters the water entering the geyser, regulates the power of the main burner and the temperature of water heating by acting on the gas valve.

The video clip is devoted to an overview of the Junkers WR400-1 gas column water unit:

Ignition group.

The ignition group is designed to ignite the main burner during gas supply.

Material: silumin, steel, brass.

Consists of: gas supply pipe, nozzle, nozzle, ignition electrode, thermocouple.

The video clip is devoted to an overview of the Junkers WR400-1 gas column ignition group:

Main burner.

The main burner is used to receive, supply, distribute and burn the gas-air mixture. It is very important to keep the main burner clean at all times. Clean the main burner of the geyser at least once a year. It is also necessary to clean the collector nozzles.

Material: Steel, silumin, brass.

Consists of: Burner sections, header, nozzles, union nut.

Vido review is dedicated to the main burner of the gas column Junkers WR400-1:

Gas node.

The gas unit is designed to regulate the gas supply to the main burner. Responsible for blocking the gas supply with a solenoid valve.

Material: silumin, brass, steel

Consisting of: body, adjustment knob, spring system, valves, solenoid valve

The video clip is dedicated to the Junkers WR400-1 geyser gas unit:

Security automation.

To ensure safe operation of the geyser Junkers WR400-1 is equipped with safety automatics.

The security system includes: solenoid valve, thermocouple, overheating sensor, draft sensor.

The video clip is dedicated to a detailed review of Junkers WR400-1 gas column safety automation:

Malfunctions that occur during the ignition of the gas column.

Does the geyser go out when turned on? Do not move the handle to the working position? Ignition wick does not ignite? These are typical malfunctions that occur during the ignition of the geyser. I will try to tell you about what you need to pay attention to when typical malfunctions occur at the Junkers WR400-1 geyser.

The video clip is devoted to a detailed overview of the malfunctions that occur during the ignition of the geyser Junkers WR400-1:

Malfunctions that occur during the operation of the gas column.

The geyser does not heat up, turns off during operation, boils, etc. All these are typical malfunctions that occur during the operation of the geyser. I will tell you about what you need to pay attention to when typical malfunctions occur at the Junkers WR400-1 geyser.

The video clip is devoted to a detailed overview of the malfunctions that occur during the operation of the geyser Junkers WR400-1:

Junkers geysers from Bosch come in three types with piezo ignition, with automatic ignition from batteries and with ignition from an internal hydro generator. All models are equipped with safety sensors: control of draft, overheating, flame (except for the electronic version).

When the sensor that controls the draft is triggered, it is necessary to contact the ZhEK, since the main reason is the lack of draft in the chimney. Checking this is very simple, you need to take a strip of paper and bring it to the chimney, if it is motionless, you need the help of a chimney sweep.

The overheat sensor is necessary to avoid overheating of the coil from burning. It is triggered in cases of contamination of the heat exchanger or clogging and malfunction of the automation that regulates the operation of the column. If the problem is a malfunction of the automation, only a specialist can help. If the reason is the contamination of the coil, then it is necessary to ventilate the room and let the column cool down, disconnect the heat exchanger (it is not difficult to remove it) and rinse it from scale with special products that are commercially available in the household goods departments.

The flame sensor is triggered if, for some reason, the gas supply stops. This happens after 10 seconds from the moment the fire stops burning in the column and is accompanied by a click. At the same time, it is important that the column does not let gas through, in case of a characteristic smell, all windows and doors should be opened and gas service workers should be called.

Reasons for repairing a geyser

There are several reasons why there may be a problem with the gas supply:

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Repair and adjustment of the geyser Junkers

Junkers geyser in operation. There are problems with it, you turn off the hot water, and it continues to set fire without gas. The piezo ignition just keeps clicking until you turn it off. Tell me what can be done?

Check with an ohmmeter/multimeter/visually the microswitch on the water unit, its wiring, and fix/replace non-working parts.

At 25 degrees, the column does not emit anything at all, and at 50 degrees there is an ignition spark.
And it may be that the device is new and already needs to be disassembled and cleaned?

What is the inlet pressure? At a pressure of less than 1 bar, it is in principle normal that there is no start when the bypass is open. In general, mechanical columns work best at an inlet pressure of 2-3 bar. It is necessary to put the chimney in order, then the column will not turn off, set the right knob to the maximum temperature and then simply adjust the temperature with the left gas supply knob. A lot of people use them that way without any problems.

In operation column Junkers WR-13. Her igniter (the thing that ignites the gas) is clogged. The gas burns unevenly, and then goes out (at the igniter). Can you tell me how to clean it?

Disassemble and clean.

Junkers 275 gas column malfunction on batteries. I open the water, it lights up, the water comes out hot, everything is fine. But after 40 seconds it goes out. When you start the water again, the column does not light up, but only after a click, after 10 seconds. Tell me what is the problem? Extended the chimney, did not help.

Not enough traction. Elbow 90 degrees -1.5m chimney. Plus, it is right above the column, where there should be a vertical section of at least 700mm. To connect like this, you need a device with a turbine. Lengthen the chimney, make a vertical section directly above the column, remove all narrowing of the diameter. The upper part of the column, where the traction breaker, should not heat up when working above 50. Hot gas should not come out of the traction breaker, you can simply check it by hand. With good traction, everything is generally cold there.

Junkers WR 10 gas column malfunction. I bought it six months ago, connected it today, the igniter is on, the water flows normally, but the heating does not start. Tell me what you can do with it yourself? How can I check the gas supply valve?

Even if the column is to blame, then not the gas, but the water part (the frog) will be to blame!
Disassemble/assemble!

Junkers geyser in operation. I put the gas and water pressure regulators so that it was somewhere around 45 degrees. And today I noticed that it seems like the pressure has become stronger. If, for example, yesterday you open a hot tap to the full, well, it runs mediocrely and the temperature seems to match. And today you open it as usual (it started in the evening) and the pressure is felt stronger. I looked at the water pressure - 3 atm. That is, the pressure became the same as it used to be through an electric boiler. When I put the column, I drew it like that the pressure is weaker. But I thought that this was due to the passage sections of the Civil Code. But today the pressure has increased, and most importantly, the water has become barely warm and the gas goes out. I set gas to maximum and water to maximum hot. The pointer shows 65-70 degrees, but actually less. Warm good water, but not 70 and the pressure is good. Understood nothing. We will watch further. In addition to regular knobs on the panel twisted nothing. I think maybe the gas pressure has dropped (I'll measure it tomorrow), but what does the increase in water pressure have to do with it, and it shows 70 degrees. Or is it not the temperature of the water, but the type she "wants" to heat it to this temperature, but it does not work. I forgot to say, the water is clean without mechanical impurities. Worth a filter.

For starters, of course, check the gas pressure. About pressure. You have to pay attention to the flow. If it is not regulated by the right handle, it is necessary to sort out the water block. In any case - if the gas goes out at its normal inlet pressure - the modulator is faulty - the stem sticks, the springs are broken, etc.

Nothing is clear from the instructions. My water flow regulator is in the middle. We will not touch the gas regulator, for simplicity of reasoning, we will simply set it to the maximum. So, the water flow is in the middle. The modulator has adjusted to the set temperature and maintains the required gas pressure on the burner. Now we reduce the water flow with the regulator. The water temperature, in theory, should begin to rise, and to prevent this from happening, the modulator takes gas. Vice versa. We increase water consumption. The water temperature drops, and to prevent this, the modulator increases the gas flow. Am I speaking correctly? That is, at maximum consumption, the gas should burn as much as possible. And I have it with an increase in consumption goes out. That is, the opposite is true. This is something that is not clear. It looks like everything is stuck inside there thoroughly. Without complete disassembly not enough.

The modulator adjusts only to the input duct. The flow adjustment knob sets the point of its regulation. That is - if both handles are, say, in the middle and the flow rate has increased for some reason, the modulator increases the gas supply. But if you lowered the flow rate with the right knob, the flow rate decreased and the control point also changed, the gas remains same, and the water becomes therefore hotter. And then he also regulates with respect to this new flow point. The temperature is not set by the handle. The expense is set. The feedback of the regulator is on the flow, and not on the temperature.

The Junkers geyser has been operating for the fourth year without any complaints. And then the other day it started to fail. In general, it works for 15-20 minutes, and it goes out. You turn the water off and on, the igniter lights up, and after a few seconds it goes out, and you can do this at least as many times as it does not light up. A little time passes - earned, and again everything repeats. Water pressure is great, gas too. What could be the reason?

The draft sensor is cooling down. It looks like there is a problem with traction. Bad traction. There is no air supply.
The heat exchanger is clogged, after all, four years in operation. Look into the working column from the bottom up to the heat exchanger grate (add gas, it will be better visible), if it is red, you need to clean it. It would not hurt to clean the burner itself from dust.

Junkers WR-13 geyser malfunction. It was hard to heat water. Visually reduced the height of the flame. Took it apart and cleaned it, didn't help. Connected to a pipe that leads to gas. stove and everything worked, that is, there was not enough gas pressure. But another problem arose, the gas pressure is not regulated. What could be the problem?

A hole in the membrane of the water block, due to which the gas valve does not open completely. Check and replace membrane. Soon it won't start at all. Restrictions and thin flexible hoses lead to a lack of gas pressure. The stem of the water assembly is driven by the membrane, if it is intact and not stretched (the latter is also important), then something prevents the valve from opening completely. Perhaps the stem is sticking, the water block is incorrectly assembled, the venturi tube is clogged, or the channels in the water block housing are clogged. Again, all this is true at normal gas pressure at the inlet with the column turned on.
It must be checked and corrected first of all, otherwise you can start looking for malfunctions in a working column. The gas adjustment knob is a normal tap. If the flow is already limited by something at the inlet before this valve, then this valve will practically not affect the flow, therefore the height of the flame does not change when adjusting the gas supply knob.

Malfunction of the Junkers WR-10 column. Master installed. Turns on great. But it does not keep the temperature, although there is a temperature control function. Setting a warm temperature, the water is either cool or hot (for 10 seconds this way and that, sometimes it holds a little longer, but most often it jumps quickly enough).
The pressure in the house is not the strongest, but sufficient for the operation of the column. Maybe there are some thoughts. What could be the reason for the constant change in temperature?

Perhaps it was a trite unstable gas pressure, or the device was connected with a flexible liner with a narrowing of the diameter. Received positive feedback on gas pressure. The column tries to regulate the temperature by changing the power of the burner, while the gas pressure jumps due to a narrowing of the diameter of the liner or a too long gas pipeline of insufficient cross section. As a result, the temperature controller enters the zone of unstable operation, no one has canceled physics. Let him measure the pressure in static / dynamics and fix the connection. In general, it is not clear how you accepted the commissioning that was not carried out properly.
And still it was necessary to take with continuous modulation. There is no dependence of the regulating action on the gas pressure, the regulator is entirely powered by electricity.

Column Bosch Junkers WR-13-2. Installed two years ago. From the very beginning there were only problems. The first time I could not light it for about half an hour. Something stuck there, and the column did not want to light up. Then something clicked, and it seemed to work. And so it worked for two years, igniting every other time. And now I'm starting to freak out. The display shows a temperature of 40 degrees, and the water flows a little warm. You increase the temperature with the handles to normal to wash yourself, and the display shows 62 degrees!

The thermometer there has nothing to do with the gas supply and burner power. It's just a thermometer. Well, this, whatever it is, generator. With our water and its pressure, this is often a useless device. And sometimes - it works, but the power is not enough, especially during ignition, since at this time
maximum current is consumed. Treatment - transfer to batteries.

Checked, the symptoms are just the same - ignition through once, puffing, etc., since the spark is weak and cannot ignite the burner. At least - for starters - connect the power from two new R20 alkaline batteries in parallel (without reversing the polarity, red - plus, and connection - should be 1.5V, and
not 3). As for the thermometer - if it's lying a lot - most likely, the temperature sensor has soured, replace it.

Please tell me the electronic unit at Junkers gas water heaters, why can it fail? Explanations of the service master due to voltage fluctuations in the network. I somehow do not understand, it is not connected to the network. Who faced it?

Let's try to help you. The house has the same model. Not having worked even a year, the column gave the first failure - the burner stopped turning on (but the igniter lit up). The reason is the breakdown of the field-effect transistor Q2 in the electronic control unit (without it, the circuit does not feel a burning igniter and does not
wants to open the burner valve). I replaced the broken transistor with KP303V (KP303B should also work). Nicely turned out, however, a month later again the failure. I replaced the transistor again, but it barely lasted a couple of months. For the third time, replacing the transistor (Q2), I shunted its gate circuit with a 390KD07 (39V) varistor, i.e. added a new component to the circuit. Such protection turned out to be sufficient - the column gained new life and 3 years only pleases!

The Junkers WR 275 gas water heater is in operation. Everything works, lights up, heats up, but here's the question.
The gas (twist) handle is in the position of a small light, and the water one is in the middle. We open the faucet, the water goes warm as set up, but then after 5-6 buckets of water it becomes cooler, and significantly 10 to 15 degrees lower than the original one. At the same time, no one regulated the water pressure, it did not decrease or increase, but the water becomes colder. It helps only if you close and then reopen the tap and the process will repeat. Nobody twisted the device, it is new, so it should be or should the water flow constantly at the same temperature as it was set up?

Watch the burner flame. In order for the temperature to change by 10-15 degrees, the flame must change very strongly, it is difficult not to notice it. Well, the flow of water must also be constant. If the flame does not change, so does the flow, which means that the temperature of the water at the inlet to the column simply changes, as soon as colder water comes from the underground part of the water supply, the temperature changes, and this column should not support it.

I bought a column, connected everything, I open the tap, I hear a pie, and the fire control light is on. The flame lights up and immediately goes out! The water continues to go cold, the smell of gas appears until I turn off the tap, apparently it goes. Column bad? There is, as it were, a draft, I tried it in the same pipe as the boiler, it burns, it works. The water pressure is 3 bar, the gas is unknown, but the boiler is working. At the moment it is, of course, off, as it is summer.

If the control LED lights up before the flame appears on the burner, the electronic unit is most likely faulty, or the electrode wire or the control electrode itself is shorted to the housing. The solenoid valve may not be tight if there is a smell of gas when the tap is open and the burner is off.

Junkers gas column malfunction. It takes a very long time to fiddle with its ignition. Piezo ignition. First you have to hold the button for a long time (about a minute). Then, from a piezo igniter, it somehow does not ignite (rarely). Well, it doesn't bother me anymore, I'm used to it. We light a match after
held the button for a minute and a half (apparently, so that the gas accumulates). Then, when the wick is still set on fire, we hold the button for about a minute and only after that we move it to the right. Tell me what could be wrong?

Clogging of the tubes of the pilot burner and its nozzles, channels in the gas cock clogged with hardened grease, soot on the thermocouple, due to which it cannot warm up quickly and hold the EMC.

In operation, the Junkers WR 275 geyser. After cleaning, it does not heat the water well. I washed the heat exchanger, washed the burner, washed the membrane and all filters. Before cleaning, there was a lot of soot on the heat exchanger, the flame was uneven, sometimes red with long tongues in the area of ​​​​the ignition group, soot was also mainly in the middle. Now the flame is blue, even, but the water temperature is very low, it practically does not react to the water and gas supply regulators (handles). Water pressure, gas pressure, exhaust are normal, the ignition group is new (tube, ignition electrodes), changed only the day before yesterday. The water is warm if
greatly reduce the pressure, then warmer, about 45 degrees, before cleaning it gave out almost boiling water. The device is 10 years old. Can you tell me what could be wrong with her?

Perhaps soured (or stuck with rust) Venturi tube. It is necessary to clean the tube, gaskets (rings), installation site and lubricate everything with silicone grease.

The Bosch geyser has been working for five years. Power control at minimum. The flow regulator is fully open. Every year, the temperature of the water produced by the column is increasing. Hot water has to be diluted with cold. You open a little more cold - the column goes out. Is there any other way to lower the temperature of the water?

Only by limiting the gas, the screw filled with paint is sealed, but before this manipulation, it is necessary, if available, to check the coarse water filter. Clean if necessary.

Junkers 275 geyser malfunction. It used to heat water very well, but a couple of days ago the water started running at 25 degrees, when the power lever was set to the extreme position and the flow knob was set to a minimum and back, there was no reaction of the column. At the same time, the radiator was washed, the main burner was cleaned and
moved the water unit.

Maybe the gas pressure in the network has dropped. This can be especially noticeable if the column is connected with a thin hose. Maybe the gas filter is clogged. Maybe something else. It seems that this column allows you to adjust the gas pressure in front of the nozzles, but it is better for a specialist to do this.

I installed a Junkers WR-10 gas water heater a year and a half ago to replace the old Soviet one. And grief did not know until now. And now it is getting worse and worse began to heat the water. The water in our city is hard, but the water pressure at the outlet is still normal, strong, the heater is also not dusty. Maybe someone has instructions? Where to even start the repair, what to look for?

To begin with, measure the flow of cold and hot water on one mixer in liters / min. Then you can understand how clogged the heat exchanger is. Next: 1) cleaning the water reducer. Carefully! disassemble, check the cleanliness inside, check the integrity of the membrane. 2) cleaning the gas burner (remove, rinse and blow with compressed air). 3) cleaning the heat exchanger from the outside. (see point 2). Should help.

05 Feb 2013, 04:21

Help solve the problem. The Junkers column has recently stopped working normally. It is essentially impossible to turn it on, when you hold the start button - the gas goes on, the flame is there, as soon as you let go - the flame goes out and the gas shuts off. Previously, this was not the case, everything worked normally, I held the button a little, released it - everything functions.

05 Feb 2013, 04:27

There can be many reasons, it depends more on the design of the column itself, already specifically on its type. I did not personally encounter the Junkers, but the problems are usually standard.

This is most likely a thermocouple contact that has oxidized somewhere and does not give the correct signal to the burner control system. If you clean it up, it might work.

Malfunction at the Junkers gas column - the malfunction igniter goes out

05 Feb 2013, 04:28

I think you need to look at the gas valve, it happens that it is buggy, because the thermocouple itself rarely fails, it is almost eternal. It’s better not to do such work yourself, here everyone’s safety is above all. Call the service, I think a person can fix this problem not expensively and quickly, why climb yourself if you have never encountered this.

Malfunction at the Junkers gas column - the malfunction igniter goes out

05 Feb 2013, 04:31

The serviceman may suggest short-circuiting the thermocouple if this is the cause. I would not advise you to agree to this, if you turn it off, the column will work, but this does not guarantee its further safe operation.

If suddenly the gas goes out, then it will still go, even though it comes a little from its wick.

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Malfunction at the Junkers gas column - the malfunction igniter goes out

In accordance with the requirements of the regulatory and technical documents in force on the territory of the Russian Federation, maintenance and repair of gas-consuming equipment must be carried out by a specialized organization that has a certificate of admission to this type of work, as well as duly certified personnel.
Call a service technician accordingly.

Sergey N wrote: The serviceman can offer to short-circuit the thermocouple if the reason is in it. I would not advise you to agree to this, if you turn it off, the column will work, but this does not guarantee its further safe operation.