Thermal insulation materials, waterproofing and vapor barrier should be at a distance of 15 cm from a brick or concrete chimney, if a ceramic product acts as a pipe, then the allowable distance is 25 cm.

How to cut a hole

After the location of the pipe is determined, it is necessary to mark up and prepare a hole in the metal tile.

The coating layer, together with the heat and waterproofing, can be cut using a sharp knife or large scissors. There are two ways to make a hole in a metal tile:

The hole can be made during installation or after the flooring has been laid. To prepare a round and rectangular hole, metal shears, a jigsaw or nibblers are used.

To prepare a hole with a circular cross section, you need to draw a circle with several intersecting diameters in the center. After that, using scissors for metal, you need to make cuts starting from the center of the markup to the edges, then bend the resulting triangles inward.

Fire safety

To ensure fire safety when a pipe passes through a metal roof, it is necessary to equip a special box into which non-combustible material must be poured, for example,.

In addition, it is recommended to thicken the walls of the chimney up to 35-40 cm. If a brick pipe is used for passing, then the thickening of the walls will reduce the heating of the surrounding materials to an acceptable 40-50 degrees.

Methods for withdrawing a pipe through a roof covered with metal tiles

The passage node is selected according to the shape and size of the chimney. The most popular options for passing the roof are:

Square or rectangular outlet.
Round exit.

Each type has its own characteristics and sequence of installation.

How to make a rectangular chimney outlet

Rectangular passage is carried out in two stages:

Installation of the inner apron before laying the coating.
Installation of the outer element, after laying the coating.

The installation process can be divided into the following points:

Determining the location of the top edge of the inner junction bar. To do this, it is applied to the wall of the pipe.
Along the mark line, with the help of a grinder, you need to make a groove, about 150 mm deep, while the strobe should be with a slight upward slope. The final stage is its cleaning, which is recommended to be carried out with water.
The junction bar must first be installed on the side of the chimney from the cornice, and then the other three bars are installed on the side and top.
The planks are laid with an overlap of about 150 mm, and the edges are filled with silicone sealant. As fastening it is recommended to use roofing screws.
To form a "tie" through which water from precipitation will pass, a sheet of metal is installed under the bottom. Usually it is installed so that water immediately enters the drainage system.
To remove the waterproofing, it is raised to the wall of the chimney by 5 cm, and fixed in this position with a special adhesive tape. This will provide additional reliability at the junction.
Now proceed to the equipment of the lower apron, which serves more for a decorative purpose. It is installed in the same way, only to fix the outer strips, the walls of the chimney do not need to be ditched. In fact, the bottom apron turns out to be sandwiched between the sheets of metal, which excludes the penetration of moisture under the roof.

deposit photos

How to exit a round chimney

A round passage is a little more difficult to install, so a through passage was developed to facilitate the work. It consists of a flat steel base and an elastic cap. This allows you to hermetically connect all the elements of the passage.

For the production of passage elements, EPDM rubber or silicone are used, which have high thermal stability. Pass-through elements made of silicone are recommended for use in those places where there are temperature fluctuations from -75°С to +260°С, elements made of EPDM can withstand temperature fluctuations from -55°С to +135°С.

The installation of the passage element consists of the following items:

On the coating of metal tiles, you need to cut a hole based on the diameter of the pipe.
wetting transition element liquid soap, it is put on the pipe.
The sealing element, with the help of light pressure, repeats the bends of the roofing.
To fasten the element, you can use self-tapping screws, but before that, a sealant is applied under the transition element. The screws must be spaced 35 cm apart.

For greater efficiency, experienced roofers advise choosing a smaller diameter of the ring on the passage element relative to the pipe section, by about 20%, and at the same level it needs to be cut.

The choice of sealant for chimneys

There are two types of sealant for installing chimneys:

Heat resistant.
Heat resistant.

It is customary to use heat-resistant compounds for insulating the outer surfaces of stoves and fireplaces, as well as for insulating joints between brick pipes and roofing. It can also be used when installing sandwich pipes, but not from metal.

Many sealants are based on silicone, with the addition of iron oxide, due to which, such a sealant is able to withstand constant temperatures from 250 to 350 degrees. Heat resistant sealants can be acidic or neutral.

Heat-resistant compounds are used in cases where the temperature of constant heating ranges from 1200-1300 degrees, and short-term reaches 1600 degrees. Such a sealant is used to seal cracks in the furnace furnace, where there is an open fire and to seal chimneys on the roof. For cases with open fire, you need to choose refractory compounds.

The basis of heat-resistant pastes contains silicate. During polymerization, it is converted into an organosilicon compound, which is extremely durable and 100% waterproof.

Every person, when building his house, wants his roof to be reliable, protected from rain and never leaked. But how to properly make a roof so that there are no problems? And for this it must be done according to all the rules. The most problematic places on the roof are chimneys, junctions with walls and valleys. It’s impossible to write about everything at once, so let’s start with a question: How to bypass the chimney? Chimneys are different, but first I want to tell you, from my experience, how to get around the brick metal chimney. When the roof frame is already made and the crate is stuffed, you need to deal with the pipe in front of the metal tile. To do this, you need a lower abutment bar, which looks like an angle measuring 140x140 mm and bent at 90 degrees. One side of the bar that is placed on the crate is bent by 30 mm and has a board to stop the water, the other side simply adjoins the wall. Start investing lower adjoining strips needed from below. To do this, a sheet of metal is placed, which fits to the lower edge of the chimney. On top of this sheet, you need to put an adjoining bar, then along the edges of the pipe, bars are also placed on each side, including on top, superimposed on each lower bar. This is done so that when water gets in, water is thrown onto the top of the metal tile sheet. Not everyone puts the lower junction bar, and this is a gross mistake, since water flows down the film due to heavy rain or snow blowing, if there are no these bars, and this contributes to the rotting of the crate, it can moisten the insulation in some places. And in the worst cases, in general, water gets into the house and thereby spoils the repair. After the bottom adjoining strips metal roofing is installed. Then, the top junction bar is placed on top of the tile. It also has the shape of an angle of 112x112 mm, one side of this plank at the end is made as a drip, which lies on the tile. And the other side at the end is bent by 20 mm, this is done so that these 20 mm go into the strobe of the wall, which is made along the perimeter of the entire chimney. This strobe is sawn through with a grinder (it is advisable to do this before the metal tile), then this seam is blown from dust and clogged with sealant. This seam includes an abutment bar and is fixed with dowels, and the other side is screwed to the tile with self-tapping screws. Also, a sealant should be laid between the plank and the metal tile, which will trap snow. This basic technological rules bypassing the chimney, but there are exceptions. For example, if the chimney is located on top of the ridge and it is small in size, the lower bars may not be installed. Also, instead of the lower junction bars, you can use a flat sheet, cut it into pieces and lay it on all sides. When the chimney is sheathed corrugated board, then the junction bar is placed under the bottom of the corrugated board and screwed with self-tapping screws. Sometimes the chimney is made of torn brick. It needs to be done like this: first you need to put a red brick that will come out above the tiles, make adjunctions on it, and then continue to lay the torn brick.

There are different options, and with each you need to do something additionally or a little differently. My advice is to contact good specialists who know everything. If it is not possible, read the material, and carefully control the entire process yourself. I meet a lot of roofers who do not know how and in general are far from being how to bypass a chimney. Some roofers are too lazy, because they have to fiddle a lot, they do it as quickly as possible. Took the money and be healthy, and then big consequences. So I I wish you success, may your roof always be reliable!

But I found a video on how to properly connect a metal tile to a chimney.

When a fireplace or stove is to be installed in a residential building, first of all, you should think about creating a chimney. The arrangement of the passage of the pipe through the metal roof has its own nuances.

Conclusion of the furnace pipe through the metal tile

The output of the pipe through the metal tile (see photo) provides for the solution of two issues. The first one concerns the organization of the fireproof and the coating on it. To solve it, it will be necessary to isolate the materials prone to ignition and thereby prevent their contact with the surface of the pipe. The second problem is related to ensuring the tightness of the exit point of the chimney to the outside, to the roof. It can be solved by carrying out a number of activities during the execution of roofing work.

Everyone understands that the place of the through passage on the roof requires special attention on the part of the property owner and violation of technology during the arrangement of the output can lead to water leakage during the first, even light rain. , providing an abutment to the pipe, is best done where the roof ridge is located, since snow pockets do not appear in this place, and accordingly the likelihood that a place will appear here from where moisture will penetrate into the attic space decreases.

Although this option for arranging the passage of a pipe through the roof has its drawbacks. The main one is that the truss system will have to be performed either without a ridge beam at all, or to make this element with a gap. To implement such a design, you need to install additional supports for the rafters, but when they plan to use the attic space, they become an obstacle.

What experts do not recommend doing is to build a chimney through a metal tile where the slopes intersect in the vicinity of the valleys, since it is very difficult to make a high-quality abutment in this place and this place is already too vulnerable.

Brick pipe outlet protection

After the pipe has already been brought out to the roof of the metal tile, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the roofing around. For such purposes, they use a roofing structure, which is called an internal apron, and for its installation, metal corners will be required that act as adjoining strips. They are purchased simultaneously with the purchase of components for the roof and they have the same color as the roofing material.

To make an inner apron, you will need tools:

marker;
hammer;
pliers;
metal long ruler;
grinder with a 2 mm disc.

Measures aimed at solving the problem of how to bypass the pipe with metal tiles and work to ensure a reliable connection of the roofing material to the pipe are carried out in stages:

an abutment bar is applied to the surface of the chimney and a line is marked on the brick where this happens (similarly to this method, perform);
using a metal ruler, the label is transferred to other sides of the chimney;
using a grinder, a groove 2 mm wide is made along the marked line. A strobe is laid not at the place of the brickwork seam, but along its surface;
work areas are cleaned of dust formed on them - it is best to rinse them with water and let them dry;
the groove is filled with silicone sealant, preferably colorless, and an edge is inserted into it, fixing it with self-tapping screws. At the same time, installation work begins with a wall turned to the roof eaves, and not to the ridge. The remaining parts of the apron are fixed on the other sides of the pipe in the same way. If it is not possible to dock the planks, then in this case an overlap of 15 centimeters wide is performed;
then a sheet of metal is placed under the lower edge of the apron - it is commonly called a tie, this element is necessary to divert precipitation in the direction of the drain or to the valley. At the edges of the tie, small bumpers are made with a hammer and pliers;
after that, a metal tile is laid around the pipe on top of the apron and tie and proceed to install the outer apron.

When carrying out work, in order not to damage the roofing, it is necessary to observe safety measures: the builder must wear an assembly belt with a safety halyard, shoes with soft soles. You need to move along the crate, step into the deflection of the wave.

When the installation of the coating near the pipe is completed, an external apron is installed, which performs a more decorative function than a protective one. The arrangement of the outer apron is carried out in the same way as the inner one, only the abutment strips are attached to the pipe without chasing the walls.

The passage of metal tiles with an iron chimney

They sell a finished product in the distribution network - a passage through a metal tile roof for a chimney. It is a base made from a flat sheet of steel and

January 21, 2017

How to run a chimney through a metal roof?

When installing a stove in a house, the question invariably arises, how to get it out. The solution to this issue depends on the following components:

pipe shape;
placements;
roof structures (insulated, non-insulated);
roof shapes;
roof coverings.

Now we will consider the order of arrangement on. It is best to produce a pipe exit in the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof ridge. In this case, the pipe will pass through the roof in a warm zone, which will significantly reduce the risk of condensation in the chimney. The second important fact is the absence of snow pockets. This greatly affects the possibility of roof leaks.

However, the question immediately arises of what to do with the truss system. If at the stage of construction of your house a ridge with a gap is structurally provided, then the task of passing the chimney will be greatly simplified. If not, then it is best to make a passage on the slope of the roof near the ridge.

Having decided on the place of the pipe outlet, we proceed directly to the work. We draw the place of penetration. At the same time, we immediately determine that the hole for penetration itself should be 7-10 cm larger than the pipe itself. This is necessary for arranging thermal insulation and avoiding fire on the roof. In the place where the pipe exits in the metal tile, using a jigsaw, metal shears or a grinder, we make a hole of the required shape.

In the absence of these tools, a hole in the metal tile can be made using a drill, or a hammer and a chisel in the following way:

do the markings around the perimeter as much as possible more holes;
squeeze out a piece of metal;
clean the edges with a file.

When the hole is ready, we proceed to further work. Given that the roof consists of various, including combustible materials, such as wooden lathing, rafters, insulation, steam and waterproofing film, it is imperative to comply with fire safety measures. The materials used to design the penetration must be non-combustible and provide maximum protection of the elements in contact with the pipe from heating. The maximum temperature in the contact zone should not exceed 40-50 degrees.

Arrangement of a round chimney

When arranging a round chimney, we use a factory pass-through element (sleeve). It is installed from the bottom of the roof and fastened from the side of the attic (mansard), taken in a size larger than the pipe itself. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm, a passage element (it is also a sleeve or a roof penetration) with a diameter of 230 mm is taken. A pipe is installed in the passage element.

The voids between the sleeve and the pipe are filled with basalt wool. This will ensure fire safety. The sleeve will not heat up from the pipe. In the future, a master flash is put on the pipe (it is also called a cap). The master flash is a metallized sheet with a top elastic silicone joint with dimensions marked on it. The size must be selected and cut smaller than the size of the pipe.

Next, the master flash is lubricated with liquid soap and put on the pipe. The base of the master flash and the metal tile at the attachment point are lubricated with silicone and tightly crimped. In the future, the base of the master flash with a step of 30-35 cm is attached to the metal tile with roofing screws.

Due to its elastic shape, the master flash adheres tightly to all elements of the roof covering and ensures complete watertightness. The master flash must be selected in accordance with the shape of the roof. It is different for a straight or pitched roof.

Arrangement of a square (rectangular) chimney

In general, the work on arranging a square (rectangular) chimney is in many ways similar to the above method for arranging a chimney for a round pipe, although there are a number of differences. Initially, after cutting out the hole for the chimney, work is carried out to ensure fire safety. In the cut hole, the edges along the entire depth of the roof are laid with basalt wool and foil.

In the future, the installation of an internal apron is carried out before the installation of the coating, and subsequently, the installation of an external decorative and protective element. After that, to ensure tightness, a tie is installed near the lower edge of the pipe between the roof and the apron. Its narrow edge passes into the valley or into the gutter. Next, the chimney is bypassed with a metal tile.

It is necessary to think about the organization of the chimney at the stage when it is only planned to install a fireplace or stove. Consider how the passage of the pipe through the metal tile should be organized.

Chimney outlet through the roof

When organizing the output of the chimney through the roof and roofing, it is necessary to solve two problems:

must be fireproof.
The pipe passage must be airtight.

To solve the first problem, it is necessary to isolate materials prone to fire, preventing them from coming into contact with the surface of the pipe. The second task is solved by a number of measures during roofing work.

It is clear that the place on the roof, in which the through passage is made, is extremely vulnerable. Therefore, in case of violation of the technology of work, it is here that moisture leaks are possible.

Where on the roof should the pipe be taken out? From the point of view of organizing the junction, the roof ridge would be the best option. Indeed, in this place of the roof, snow pockets never form, so the likelihood of leaks is reduced.

But this option is not without drawbacks, since you will have to design a truss structure without a ridge beam, or make this beam with a gap. In this case, it will be necessary to install additional supports for the rafters, and this is not always convenient if the attic is planned to be used.

Therefore, sometimes they plan to output a pipe on a slope in the immediate vicinity of. In this case, the snow bag will not be able to form, so the junction will be easy to make.

But it is categorically not recommended to build a chimney at the intersection of the slopes (near the valleys). This place on the roof without a pipe outlet is very vulnerable, so it will be incredibly difficult to make a high-quality connection.

How to protect the roof from leaks at the outlet of the pipe?

So, the pipe is brought to the roof. How to make the roofing material hermetically adjoin its surface or, in other words, how to make the chimney pass through the metal tile?

For these purposes, a roof structure is used, which is called an internal apron. For its device, internal junction strips are required - metal corners.

As a rule, junction strips are purchased together with the rest of the roofing accessories, so they have the same color as the entire roofing.

For the device of the inner apron, the following tools will be required:

Bulgarian with a disk thickness of 2 mm;
Marker;
Long metal ruler;
Hammer and pliers.

We organize the adjoining of the metal tile to the pipe by performing next steps works:

The junction bar is applied to the surface of the pipe and a line of its fit is marked on the brick (and is performed in the same way).
Using a ruler, the line is transferred to the three remaining sides of the pipe
Using a grinder, make a strobe 2 mm wide along the marked line.

Advice! The strobe should pass along the surface of the brick, and not at the place of the masonry seam.

Upon completion of work with the grinder, the working surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned of the resulting dust. It is advisable to rinse the surface with water and allow it to dry.
The strobe is filled with a colorless silicone sealant, then the edge of the abutment bar is inserted into it. The plank is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Advice! It is necessary to start mounting the inner apron from the bottom wall of the pipe, that is, the one that is turned to the cornice, and not to the roof ridge.

By the same principle, parts of the inner apron are fixed on all other sides of the pipe.
In the event that it becomes necessary to join the planks, you need to overlap with a width of 150 mm.
Further, a sheet of metal is wound under the lower edge of the inner apron, which roofers call a tie. The purpose of installing this element is to ensure that water is drained towards the drain or the nearest valley. Along the edges of the tie, it is worth making small bumpers using pliers and a hammer.
On top of the finished apron and tie, metal tiles are installed around the pipe.
The next stage of work is the installation of an external apron.

Advice! When moving on the roof, safety measures must be taken. In order not to damage the roofing, you need to wear shoes with soft soles and step only on the location of the crate only in the deflection of the wave. To ensure the safety of the worker, he must be put on a mounting belt with a safety halyard.

After completing the installation of the roofing around the pipe, they begin to install the outer apron, which performs not so much a protective as a decorative function.
The installation of the outer apron is carried out similarly to the installation of the inner one, only the outer junction strips are simply attached to the pipe, without chasing its walls.

The method described above, in which the adjunction to the metal tile pipe is organized, is perfect for rectangular brick pipes. But what if the pipe is round and made of metal?

Today, this problem is easy to solve: manufacturers of materials for roofing equipment offer ready-made solutions - a roof passage for a chimney. Such a passage is a base made of a flat sheet of steel and a cap hermetically connected to it. Inside this cap, the chimney pipe will pass.

An apron purchased or made from adjoining strips must be securely fixed to the roof structures. However, experienced craftsmen do not recommend making the fastening of the apron with the chimney rigid.

The fact is that due to shrinkage of the roof or due to thermal expansion and contraction of the pipe itself, the created structure can be damaged.

To avoid this, the craftsmen advise putting on the so-called skirt (clamp) at the junction of the pipe with the apron, which is fixed with a heat-resistant elastic gasket. This design is airtight, but not rigid, so it will not be destroyed when the linear dimensions of individual structural elements change.

conclusions

The junction of the pipe to the roofing material is one of the most vulnerable sections of the roof. Therefore, its arrangement should be treated with double attention.