When a fireplace or stove is to be installed in a residential building, first of all, you should think about creating a chimney. The arrangement of the passage of the pipe through the metal roof has its own nuances.

Leading the furnace tube through the metal tile

The conclusion of the pipe through the metal tile (see photo) provides for the solution of two issues. The first one concerns the organization of the fireproof and the coating on it. To solve it, it will be necessary to insulate materials that are prone to fire and thereby prevent them from coming into contact with the pipe surface. The second problem is associated with ensuring the tightness of the place where the chimney exits to the outside, to the roof. It can be solved by carrying out a number of measures during the performance of roofing work.

Everyone understands that the place of the through passage on the roof requires special attention from the owner of the property and a violation of the technology when arranging the outlet can lead to water leakage during the first, even light rain. , providing an abutment to the pipe, is best done where the ridge of the roof is located, since snow pockets do not appear in this place, and accordingly the likelihood that there will be a place from where moisture will penetrate into the attic is reduced.

Although this option for arranging the passage of the pipe through the roof has its drawbacks. The main one is that the rafter system will have to be performed either without a ridge beam at all, or to make this element with a gap. To implement such a structure, additional supports must be installed for the rafters, but when the attic is planned to be used, they become an obstacle.

What experts do not recommend doing is to build a chimney through the metal tile where the slopes intersect in the vicinity of the valleys, since it is very difficult to make a high-quality junction in this place and this place is already too vulnerable.

Brick pipe outlet protection

After the pipe has already been brought to the roof from the metal tile, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the roofing around. For such purposes, a roofing structure is used, which is called an internal apron, and for its construction, metal corners will be required that serve as abutment strips. They are purchased simultaneously with the purchase of accessories for the roof and they have the same color as the material for the roof.

To make an inner apron, you will need tools:

• marker;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• long metal ruler;
• grinder with 2 mm disc.

Measures aimed at solving the problem of how to bypass the pipe with metal tiles and work to ensure reliable abutment of the roofing material to the pipe are carried out in stages:

• an abutment bar is applied to the surface of the chimney and a line is marked on the brick where this happens (similar to this method, they are performed);
• using a metal ruler, the mark is transferred to other sides of the chimney;
• using a grinder along the marked line, make a groove 2 millimeters wide. The strobe is laid not at the place of the seam of the brickwork, but along its surface;
• working areas are cleaned of dust formed on them - it is best to rinse them with water and let them dry;
• the groove is filled with silicone sealant, preferably colorless, and the edge is inserted into it, securing it with self-tapping screws. In this case, installation work begins from the wall turned towards the eaves of the roof, and not towards the ridge. The rest of the apron is fixed on the rest of the sides of the pipe in the same way. If it is not possible to join the strips, then in this case, an overlap with a width of 15 centimeters is performed;
• then a sheet of metal is placed under the lower edge of the apron - it is usually called a tie, this element is necessary to drain precipitation in the direction of the drain or to the valley. Small sides are made along the edges of the tie with a hammer and pliers;
• after that, a metal tile is laid around the pipe on top of the apron and tie and proceeds to install the outer apron.

When carrying out work, so that the roofing does not damage, it is necessary to observe safety measures: the builder must wear an assembly belt with a safety halyard, shoes with soft soles. You need to move along the crate, step into the deflection of the wave.

When the installation of the coating near the pipe is completed, an outer apron is installed, which performs a more decorative function than a protective one. The arrangement of the outer apron is similar to that of the inner one, only the abutment strips are attached to the pipe, without performing the slitting of the walls.

Passage of metal tiles by an iron chimney

They sell a finished product in the retail network - a passage through a metal roof for a chimney. It is a base made of a flat sheet of steel and

Every person, when building his house, wants his roof to be reliable, protect from precipitation and never leak. But how to make the roof correctly so that there are no problems? And for this it must be done according to all the rules. The most problematic places on the roof are chimneys, abutments to walls and valleys. You can't write about everything at once, so let's start with the question: How to get around the chimney? Chimneys are different, but first I want to tell you, from my experience, how to properly bypass a brick chimney on metal tiles... When the roof frame has already been made and the crate is filled, you need to tackle the pipe in front of the metal tile. To do this, you need a lower abutment bar, which looks like an angle of 140x140 mm and is bent at 90 degrees. One side of the plank, which is placed on the crate, is bent by 30 mm and has a side to stop the water, the other side simply lies against the wall. Start nesting bottom abutment strips need from below. For this, a sheet of metal tile is placed, which fits to the lower edge of the chimney. On top of this sheet, you need to put an abutment bar, then along the edges of the pipe, slats are also placed on each side, including from above, imposed on each lower bar. This is done so that when water gets in, water is thrown onto the top of the sheet of metal. Not everyone sets the lower abutment plank, and this is a gross mistake, since water, due to heavy rain or snow blowing, flows down the film, if these planks are not present, and this contributes to the decay of the crate, it can moisten the insulation in some places. And in the worst cases, water generally enters the house and thereby spoils the repair. After the bottom abutment strips the metal tile is laid. Then the top abutment strip is placed on top of the tile. It also has the shape of an angle of 112x112 mm, one side of this strip at the end is made like a drip, which lies on the tile. And the other side at the end is bent by 20 mm, this is done so that these 20 mm go into the wall groove, which is made around the perimeter of the entire chimney. This groove is sawn with a grinder (it is advisable to do this before the metal tile) then this seam is blown out of dust and clogged with a sealant. This seam includes an abutment bar and is fixed with dowels, and the other side is screwed to the tile with self-tapping screws. Also, between the bar and the metal tile, a seal must be laid, which will retain the snow. it basic technological rules bypassing the chimney, but there are exceptions. For example, if the chimney is located on the top of the ridge and is small, the lower planks may not be installed. Also, instead of the lower abutment strips, you can use a flat sheet, cut it into pieces and lay it on all sides. When the chimney is sheathed corrugated board, then the abutment bar is placed under the bottom of the corrugated board and screwed on with self-tapping screws. Sometimes the chimney is made of torn bricks. It needs to be done like this: first you need to put a red brick, which will come out above the tiles, make abutments on it, and then lay the torn brick further.

There are different options, and for each you need to do something additionally or slightly differently. My advice is to contact good specialists who know everything. If it is not possible, read the material and carefully control the whole process yourself. I meet a lot of roofers who do not know how and are generally far from how to bypass the chimney correctly... Some roofers are too lazy because they have to tinker a lot, they do it as quickly as possible. I took the money and be healthy, and then the big consequences. So I I wish you success, may your roof always be reliable!

But I found a video on the topic of how to correctly make the junction of the metal tile to the chimney.

• Chimney location recommendations
• Exit through the roofing pie
• Roof sealing at the passage
• Brick chimney seal
• Sealing round flue ducts
• Conclusion on the topic

The passage of the chimney through the metal roofing must be provided at the design stage of the structure. The device of the passage is an important point in the performance of work, the fire safety of the roof, attic, and the density of the roof will depend on its quality. The basic requirements for the arrangement of chimneys are reflected in building codes and fire safety rules. To comply with all standards, it is necessary to determine in advance the location of the chimney passage through the ceiling and the roof structure, depending on its size, section and material.

The passage of the chimney through the metal roof must be foreseen at the design stage.

The chimney cross-section is of two options:

• rectangular or square;
• round.

Chimneys of rectangular cross-section are made of bricks. They are large compared to round ones. Pipes are used for the construction of round smoke ducts. The material can be metal, asbestos cement or ceramics. Depending on the material, the rules regulate the minimum distance from the surface of the channels to the combustible structures.

When arranging an attic floor, additional requirements are imposed on the location of the chimney. In windy weather or low pressure, smoke should not enter the windows of the second floor or balcony.

One of the most successful locations for the chimney is the passage through the ridge. In this option, the easiest way to arrange a seal when passing through the roof, the snow does not linger with sufficient slopes. The main disadvantage of this option is that the roof structure should not have ridge beams. An exit with a split beam and additional elements reinforcing the roof structure is possible, but this option is rather difficult to manufacture, it cannot be used in all cases.

A generally recognized unsuccessful option is the location of the chimney in an inner corner, a valley formed by two slopes with a complex roof configuration. In such places, the maximum snow layer is formed, the load on the compaction increases. When it rains, two streams of water converge from different slopes, the common stream also creates high blood pressure on the roof. With the highest quality sealing device, after some time of operation, a leak still occurs in the roof.

The golden mean is between the two extreme options: below the ridge, as close as possible to it:

• the outer part of the pipe will be small, there is no need to use additional fasteners;
• the accumulation of snow in the area of ​​the ridge is minimal, there is no need to install a snow retention device;
• simplifies the installation of the roof.

If floor beams and other combustible roof elements are at an unacceptable distance from the chimney, you can arrange an additional turn and bring the pipe to the right place.

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Exit through the roofing pie

Many buildings have an insulated roof, consisting of insulation, layers of steam and waterproofing, two rows of lathing. The installation of a chimney will violate their integrity, which will affect the heat-insulating and moisture-proof properties of the roofing. In accordance with the PPB, the minimum distance to combustible materials, depending on the material of the chimney, should be from 130 to 250 mm. At the place of passage through the insulated roof, the distance to the rafters to the left and to the right of the chimney must be no less than that established by fire safety rules. Additional cross beams must be installed above and below at the same distance.

If the device is carried out in an already made roof, the layers of vapor barrier and waterproofing must be cut diagonally in the form of an envelope, tucked in the edges, and fixed on the beams. For reliability, it is advisable to treat the joints with a sealant or special adhesive tape. It is advisable to install a drainage channel to collect and drain condensate. The device can be purchased or made from waterproof material. Thin stainless steel is usually used. The groove must be put on the pipe and the lower end must be brought out to the roof to drain the condensate.

The resulting void must be filled with insulation. It is not recommended to use fiberglass insulation - it does not withstand high temperatures. The most suitable material is basalt wool, which can withstand temperatures up to 800 ° C.

Similarly, you can equip the passage if the chimney falls on one of the rafter legs. A segment of the required length is cut out of the beam and an additional box is arranged.

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Roof sealing at the passage

Installation of a chimney requires careful protection from melt and rainwater flowing down the roof and chimney. Wrong or poorly performed work can lead to serious problems and costly repairs over time. Special aprons are used for protection. Various designs, depending on the shape and size of the channel, can be purchased from trade organizations or made by yourself. The upper side of the apron is placed under the edge of the roof sheet located above or covered with a ridge. The side and bottom edges are fixed in any way possible with sealing of the joints.

For chimneys with a circular cross-section, it is advisable to install an additional fastener made of metal brackets, which increases the stability of the pipe in the place of passage through the roof. You can use pieces of a metal profile or angle, fixed on four sides. The structure should not rigidly fix the pipe, it is necessary to take into account the thermal expansion of the pipe during heating and leave small gaps. The position of the pipe must be controlled with a plumb bob, accurate positioning will prevent soot build-up and improve traction.

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Brick chimney seal

Protection of a brick pipe is carried out using special elements that have a different shape depending on the location and configuration of the roofing material. Manufacturers of building materials produce elements that correspond to a specific profile of metal tiles. To seal the joints, special sealing tapes are used. The adhesive contains a mixture of aluminum and lead and is able to withstand large temperature changes. Parts are fixed on four sides of the chimney, one edge is pressed against the wall, the other against the roof or lathing. For reliability, it is advisable to cut grooves in the walls of the chimney in order to install the upper edges of the parts in them. The grooves can be cut with a grinder with a circle for working on stone. The cut must go over the brick surface; deepening the masonry joint is not recommended.

In the absence of parts on sale, you can make the protection yourself (Fig. 1). As a material, you can use galvanized iron, stainless steel or aluminum sheet.

The material must be cut into 4 parts - top, bottom and side. Bend the workpieces at the required angles, prepare the wall surfaces, observing the order, install and fix all the elements. Experts recommend installing an additional drain - a tie at the bottom of the apron. It is made of tin in the shape of a triangle. The base is launched under the lower apron element, the two remaining sides have a side of a small height. The apex of the triangle must reach the top edge of the subsequent roofing sheet. Moisture trapped under the apron will drain down, collect on the tie and be diverted to the roof.

With a large chimney, it is advisable to install your own small roof above it.

It will protect the outer and inner surfaces from excessive precipitation.

You need to think about how the pipe will pass through the metal tiles of your country house or summer cottage at the stage of laying a fireplace or stove. These are very important jobs that need to be paid a lot of attention. It is better if the exit of the pipe through the metal tile will be thought out in advance even at the stage of drawing up the construction project.

The place where the chimney will come out should be determined in advance. According to the recommendations of specialists, you should not make a pipe exit near the valleys. This is due to the fact that they accumulate the maximum amount of snow cover, which puts a serious load on the area where the chimney and the roof join. Another not the best place where the passage of the chimney through the metal tile can be made is the space near the window openings of the attic. Since harmful smoke can easily get inside the house just by a gust of wind.

The best place for a chimney is considered to be the space near the ridge.

Snow practically does not accumulate in this place, which minimizes the likelihood of leakage. The height of the chimney depends on the type of roof.

If the roof has a flat surface, the height of the chimney should be 50 cm.If the roof is ridge, then the height is determined by calculating the distance between the chimney outlet itself and the ridge:

• distance up to 1 m 50 cm - the height of the pipe is made 50 cm higher than the ridge;
• from 1 m 50 cm to 3 m - the chimney is at the same level with the ridge;
• over 3 m - the height of the pipe is calculated from a line passing at an angle of 10 ° from the run of the ridge to the horizon.

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The exit of the pipe through the metal roof

How to install a pipe on the roof? This is a fairly common question for those who are already building their own house or are at the design stage. The most important requirements for the outlet of the chimney are 2 factors: tightness and safety in case of fires. Waterproofing, heat and vapor barrier materials, as well as wooden lathing, are places of possible fire. That is why these materials should be located no closer than 13 cm from ceramic, brick and concrete pipes.

A pipe passing through a layer of metal tiles and other roofing materials forms a small opening with the roof. It is through it that heat loss can pass, and condensation also forms there. To avoid such negative consequences, a separate rafter system should be erected for the pipe. In turn, the empty distance between the chimney and the roof is filled with basalt mineral wool, which is a non-combustible insulation. If the work on the withdrawal of the pipe takes place in an already residential building, then the materials of the steam and waterproofing are cut out with an envelope, after which, turning the edges over them, they are fixed to the system of house rafters.

The installation work has its own characteristics. For a pipe in the shape of a rectangle and a square on the slope, aprons are made: external and internal, in order to seal this place. Installation work begins with the installation of the apron inside. To begin with, the necessary lower and all upper strips are attached, then all the side parts. The bar at the bottom is applied to the wall and a line is drawn with a marker or pencil. As soon as all the lines along the perimeter of the chimney are made, strobes are made with a grinder. They are made at a depth of 15 mm. It is important that the strobe runs along the surface of the brick, and not along the seam of the masonry. After all work with the grinder, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and rinsed, then give time to dry thoroughly.

The fastening of the strips starts from the bottom of the pipe wall, then there are 2 side strips, then the top one. The planks are overlapped with an overlap of 15 cm, this is done in order to avoid leakage. The strips are fastened to the pipe using roofing screws. A so-called tie is installed under the apron. This part is attached to drain the liquid. The edges of the roof are folded with a hammer and pliers.

At this time, the installation of the external apron begins, which performs a decorative function. The strips of this apron are attached in the same sequence as for the inner one. The only difference is that the edges of these strips are fixed to the pipe walls.

To output a pipe with a circular cross-section, you need to use a special roof penetration. This part is also necessary for reliable sealing. Such a penetration is a structure with a steel sheet as a base, with a cap hermetically attached to it. The cap has a hole. A pipe passes through it through a metal roofing. The material for the manufacture of these parts is silicone or EPDM rubber. The temperature limits of these products are from -74 ° C to + 260 ° C.

To output the pipe through such a penetration, you need to make a hole in the latter, which is 20% smaller than the diameter of the sandwich pipe. Using a soapy liquid, I pull this penetration onto the pipe. This ensures that it adheres firmly and well to the inserted pipe. A seal is pressed against the roof, which takes any necessary shape. The space under the flange is coated with a sealant and the device is fastened with roofing screws.

The adjoining of the soft roof to the pipe always takes place in several stages:

• a strobe is made on the wall, 20-50 cm higher than the roof;
• along the perimeter of the junction, a bar with a triangular section is attached;
• the soft roof is placed on the timber;
• a strip for the valley is fixed to the sealant;
• soft material is first thoroughly smoothed, and then pressed;
• the junction points are fixed with metal strips and fixed on the wall with dowels.

January 21, 2017

How to lead a chimney through a metal roof?

When installing a stove in a house, the question invariably arises of how to remove it. The solution to this issue depends on the following components:

• pipe shape;
• location;
• roof structures (insulated, not insulated);
• roof shapes;
• roof coverings.

Now we will consider the order of arrangement for. It is best to exit the pipe in the area of ​​the roof ridge. In this case, the pipe will pass through the roof in a warm zone, which will significantly reduce the risk of condensate formation in the chimney. The second important fact is the absence of snow pockets. This greatly affects the possibility of roof leaks.

However, the question immediately arises of what to do with the rafter system. If at the stage of building your house a ridge with a gap is constructively provided, then the task of passing the chimney will be significantly simplified. If not, then it is best to make the passage on the roof slope near the ridge.

Having decided on the place of the pipe outlet, we will proceed directly to the work. We draw the place of penetration. In this case, we immediately determine that the hole itself for penetration should be 7-10 cm larger than the pipe itself. This is necessary for arranging thermal insulation and avoiding a fire on the roof. At the point of the pipe outlet in the metal tile, using a jigsaw, metal scissors or a grinder, we make a hole of the required shape.

In the absence of these tools, a hole in the metal tile can be made using a drill, or a hammer and chisel in the following way:

• along the perimeter of the marking we do as much as possible more holes;
• squeeze out a piece of metal tile;
• we clean the edges with a file.

When the hole is ready, we proceed to further work. Considering that the roof consists of various, including combustible materials, such as wooden lathing, rafters, insulation, steam and waterproofing film, it is imperative to observe fire safety measures. The materials used for the construction of the penetration must be non-flammable and provide maximum protection of the elements in contact with the pipe from heating. The maximum temperature in the contact area should not exceed 40-50 degrees.

Arrangement of a round chimney

When arranging a round chimney, we use a factory bushing (sleeve). It is installed from the bottom of the roof and attached from the side of the attic (attic), it is taken with a size larger than the pipe itself. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm, a passage element is taken (it is also a sleeve or a roof penetration) with a diameter of 230 mm. A pipe is installed in the passage element.

The voids between the sleeve and the pipe are filled with basalt wool. This will ensure fire safety. The sleeve will not heat up from the pipe. In the future, a master flash is put on the pipe (it is also called a cap). Master-Flash is a metallized sheet with a top elastic silicone joint with dimensions marked on it. The size must be selected and cut smaller than the pipe size.

Then the master-flash is lubricated with liquid soap and put on the pipe. The base of the master flash and the metal tile at the attachment point are lubricated with silicone and crimped tightly. In the future, the base of the master flash with a step of 30-35 cm is attached with roofing screws to the metal tile.

Thanks to its elastic shape, the Master Flash adheres tightly to all elements of the roof covering and ensures complete water resistance. Master-flash must be selected in accordance with the shape of the roof. It is different for straight or pitched roofs.

Arrangement of a square (rectangular) chimney

In general, the work on arranging a square (rectangular) chimney is in many ways similar to the above method for arranging a chimney for a round pipe, although there are a number of differences. Initially, after cutting the hole for the chimney, fire safety work is carried out. In the cut-out hole, the edges along the entire depth of the roof are laid with basalt wool and foil.

In the future, the installation of an internal apron is carried out before the installation of the coating, and subsequently, the installation of an external decorative and protective element. Thereafter, a tie is placed between the roof and the apron to ensure tightness near the lower edge of the pipe. Its narrow edge goes into the valley or into the gutter connected. Next, the chimney is bypassed with metal tiles.